U WALKS AND PARKS
A rule to live by in Haifa: always walk down, never walk up. Haifa's steep topogra-
phy makes it a difficult place to negotiate on foot. Taking a bus or the Carmelit to
the top of Carmel and working down through the city is a feasible (albeit circui-
tous) way of seeing each district's varied attractions. For more in-depth explora-
tions of the heart of Haifa, the tourist offices provide a map criss-crossed with four
walking tours (NIS3 each), each of which is supposedly 1000 steps. On Saturdays,
the Haifa Municipal Tourist Office gives free, guided versions of the tours in English
and Hebrew (2hr.; meet at 10am at the corner of Yefeh Nof and Sha'ar Ha-Levanon
St. and dress modestly for stops at Baha'i holy places).
A stroll through the quiet, shrub-lined walkways of Gan Ha-Eim (Mother's Park),
across from the Carmel Center Carmelit stop, offers a nice escape from the urban
doldrums. The Municipal Zoo houses a moderate number
of beasts including the biggest snake in the Middle East. (Open Su-Th 8am4pm, in
summer until 6pm; F 8am-lpm; Sa 9am-4pm, in summer until 5pm. NIS20, students
NIS18.) An SPNI nature trail begins in Gan Ha-Eim to the right of the shell-shaped
stage. The blue signs mark a 2km foray around the zoo, through tangled greenery
into Wadi Lotam in lower Carmel (buses #3 or 5 will get you back uptown). For
further information, contact the SPNI office. Wildlife without fencing or bars can
be found at Mount Carmel National Park, the biggest park in Israel (15min. by bus
#24, 37, or 192 from Gan Ha-eim). There are several marked trails in the park. The
SPNI office has more information.
Back in the city, two smaller parks are well worth a visit A collection of bronze
sculptures by Ursula Malbin is in the Sculpture Garden, off Ha-Tzionut Ave. near
the Baha'i Shrine. Memorial Park, off Hassan Shukri St. behind City Hall in lower
Hadar, has a memorial for soldiers from Haifa who died in Israeli wars. The com-
bination of shade and panoramic vistas makes it a perfect spot for picnics.
S SIGHTS
BAHA'I SHRINE. The golden-domed Baha'i Shrine that dominates the Haifa sky-
line commemorates the Persian Sayyid Ali Muhammad (the Bab), the first Baha'i
prophet. In 1890, Baha'ullah, the founder of the Baha'i faith (see The Baha'i, 8),
selected this spot on Mt. Carmel, near where he pitched his tent following his exile
from Persia to Akko, and instructed his son Abdu'l-Baha to bury the Bab here and
build a great temple in his honor. Though the Bab was executed in 1850 for his reli-
gious teachings, devotees transferred his remains numerous times for almost 60
years to prevent them from falling into enemy hands. Finally, in 1909, the Bab was
laid to rest as Baha'ullah had wished, inside the shrine, beneath the red carpet.
Abdu'l-Baha built the preliminary structure and Shoghi Effendi, Guardian of the
Baha'i religion from 1921 to 1957, embellished and expanded the structure. Modest
dress is required and visitors must remove their shoes before entering the shrine.
For a stunning view of the entire grounds, look up from Ben-Gurion St. or down
from Yefeh Nof St. just past the Louis Promenade.
The Baha'i Gardens opened in 2001 and in their first year hosted more than 1
million visitors. Eighteen monumental terraces stretch for 1km from the Louis
Promenade, with its stunning view of Akko, and, on a clear day, Lebanon. Tours of
the Upper Terraces start from 45 Yefeh Nof St. and end at Ha-Tzionut St. The
Lower Terrace Tour begins at 103 Ha-Tzionut St. and concludes at Ben-Gurion and
Hagefen Sts. Tours available daily, and last 45-60min. (Take bus #22 from the central
bus station or downtown or bus #23, 25, 26, or 32 from Ha-Nevi'im and Herzl St. to Ha-Tzio-
nut Ave. just above the shrine. Visitors can ascend the stairs from Ben-Gurion at the bottom,
orweave down through magnificent gardens from Yefeh Nof St. «835 83 58 or 831 31 31.
Open daily 9am-noon; gardens open 9am-5pm. Free.)