Herzl St.-where the heady fragrance of fresh burekas and croissants wafts from
a strip of bakeries-indulges a sweet tooth, but only until early evening. The
area around the Gan Ha-Eim Carmelit stop serves a late night crowd with a mix
of chain restaurants, ice cream stands, and several popular cafes and bars along
Natanson St.
There is an inexpensive fruit and vegetable market just west of the Kikkar Paris
station. Another shuk lies one block down from Ha-Halutz St. around Yehiel St.
where Haifans purchase cheap clothes, groceries, and wine. Finally, Khuri St. in
Wadi Nisnas can satisfy any suw/c-cravings on Shabbat. Be stubborn and bargain
hard (see The Fine Art of Haggling, 32).
downtown
В Iraqi Shishkebab, 59 Ben-Gurion St. The owner will put anything in a
pita to make the mother of all meals. Divine kebab skewers (NIS3 for 2) set a new stan-
dard for the culinary arts. Open Su-Th 12:30-10:30pm. О
Ma'ayan Ha-Bira, 4 Natanson St. , in the midst of the shuk, look for Carls-
burg signs on your left if coming from the Kikkar Paris Carmelit. This diner's claim to
fame is its home-smoked meats (NIS20-38). Eastern European delicacies like /'/era (fish
salad, NIS15) and kisonim (meat dumplings, NIS15) also served. Open Su-F 8am-6pm.
Credit cards accepted.
Jacko Seafood Restaurant, 12 Kehilat Saloniki St. , near the Kikkar Paris
Carmelit station and parallel to, but one block past, the shuk. Owner is a former fisher-
man who still gets fresh seafood daily (entrees NIS30-60). Enjoy this unique hole-in-
the-wall more cheaply with their Turkish desserts like malaby or semolina with coconut
(NIS10). Open Su-F noon-llpm, Sa noon-6pm. Credit cards accepted.
Abu Yousef and Brothers , in Kikkar Paris across the street (away from the
port) from the Carmelit. This spacious restaurant in the heart of downtown serves up
Middle Eastern delights including kebab, shishtik, and sinaya with pine nuts (NIS30-
40). All dishes come with fries, coffee, and pita on the side. A shot of licorice-flavored
'araq (NIS7) makes a good digestif. Open Sa-Th 8am-midnight, F 8am-6pm.
hadar
Tzimzhonit Hayim, 30 Herzl St. , has nourished vegetarians since the
1930s with Eastern European stewed veggies (NIS14) and sweet or savory blintzes
(NIS15-17). However, there is something fishy about the vegetarian menu (fish delica-
cies NIS12-20). Open Su-Th 9am-8pm, F 9am-2pm.
Beneinu, 49 Hillei St. Just "between us," it's the place to see and be
seen by Hadar locals, Baha'is, and the international crowd. Chatty cafe by day, chic bar
by night. Daily special quiche NIS27; beer NIS14-22. Open Su-Th 9:30am-lam, F
9:30am-5pm and 8pm-2am, Sa 4pm-2am. Credit cards accepted.
carmel center
il Casa Italiana, 119 Ha-Nassi Blvd. , next to McDonald's. Perfect for woo-
ing that special someone, or even just remembering what pizza (NIS26-39) is supposed
to taste like, this precious gem has been run by the same family for 30 years. Pop
makes the canneloni (NIS31.90, with mushrooms or meat) while mom cooks dessert
(NIS 15-27). Open Sa-Th 5pm-llpm. Credit cards accepted.
Sandwich Bar Carmel, 128 Ha-Nassi Blvd. Tender love notes posted on
the walls keep patrons occupied while they wait for their generously sized sandwiches
(NIS16-19). Open 24 hr.