Buses #373, 374, and 379 stop at Mordekhai junction, but do not go directly to the kibbutz
(every few hours, NIS9.50). If you get stuck in the late afternoon, go back to the bus stop on
the highway and try flagging a passing bus from Rafah. ъ 07 672 05 29. Museum and battle-
field open daily 10am-4pm. Admission to museum and battlefield NIS16, children NIS14.
From May 19th to 24th, 1948, the 165 members of Kibbutz Yad Mordekhai with-
stood an attack by an Egyptian battalion of 2500. A model of the battle comes with
soldiers, tanks, weapons, and a recorded explanation. The famous museum also
illustrates the story of the Warsaw ghetto resistance movement.
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST
The stretch of coastline north of Tel Aviv is home to much of Israel's population
and most of its agricultural output. Zionists and refugees poured onto the beaches
for the first half of the 20th century and drained the swamps of the coastal plain,
clearing the path for a modern, industrial state. Still, safely removed from the
country's two largest cities, the region maintains an old-world character. Life here
moves at a more luxurious pace; the ways of the West haven't completely taken
over yet and many old villages remain remarkably well preserved.
Picturesque beach towns, friendly kibbutzim, and significant archaeological
ruins dot the shore between Tel Aviv and the Lebanese border. Indeed, the coast
and its attractions are incredibly idiosyncratic and travelers sun-worshiping one
day may find themselves in a Druze village the next, and in a Crusader fortress the
day after that Almost every day, however, is bound to be followed by a glorious
Mediterranean sunset and a night of relaxed strolling along a promenade.
If you don't find the inner peace you seek in the stunning gardens of Haifa's Baha'i
Shrine (see 00), try the nearby surrealist artist commune of Ein Hod (see 07).
Watch the waves toss foam against the white chalk cliffs and wander through the grot-
toes of Rosh Ha-Nikra , the northernmost point of Israel's coastline.
Since the prophet Elijah fled the wrath of King Ahab to the caves of Mt. Carmel (I
Kings 18-19), Haifa has harbored religious minorities. Crusaders built the first of
several monasteries above Elijah's Cave, which eventually gave shelter to the wan-
dering Carmelite Order of Monks. German Templars established Haifa's German
colony, and the Baha'i built their world headquarters here. In the 1930s, waves of
European Jews seeking refuge from Nazism poured onto Haifa's beaches.
As a result, Haifa developed the philosophy, "live and let live." When the British
decided to construct a port in the city, Arabs and Jews flocked to the economic
opportunities and worked side-by-side in factories. Though they went home to
separate neighborhoods, the municipality as a whole employed and was supported
by members of both communities. Of course, the War of 1948 affected Haifa like
all other areas, with thousands of Arabs abandoning the city; but today, Haifa's
population of a quarter million includes a sizeable Arab minority and a small
Orthodox Jewish community, who live together with little tension. Haifa Univer-
sity has the largest Arab population of any university in Israel and a joint commu-
nity center promotes relations at the local level, especially among children. Not
surprisingly, supporters of the Israeu-Palestinian peace accords often cite Haifa as
the paradigm for peaceful Jewish-Arab co-existence.
The construction of the port had long-lasting effects on the city. Factories and
industrial districts came first to the shores of Haifa, and residential districts climbed
their way up Mt. Carmel. For most of the 20th century, Haifa remained essentially a
workers' city. Other businesses have since begun to grow, and the coast looks more
like the Riviera every day. Still, Haifa remains something of an underachieves For
BUSES. The central bus station (city line info «854 91 31), like the city itself, has
three tiers. Intercity buses leave from the first floor, city buses depart from the
second, and all buses arrive on the third. Intercity buses stop at the bus station and
in Hadar along Herzl after 8pm. All urban rides cost NIS5; a 15-ride pass is NIS47.
On weekdays, buses run from about 5:30am to 11pm. On Fridays, they stop at
around 4:30pm, depending on when Shabbat starts. Saturday buses usually begin
running at 9:30am, run less frequently than on weekends and do not run from the
central bus station, but from the Hadar area (many from Daniel St.) until about
6pm, when they switch back. Sheruts taper off a couple hours later than buses;
many go to Hadar only (NIS4.50), while others follow specific bus routes.
Haifa's bus routes are extremely circuitous and a 20-minute walk (though
uphill) may be a half-hour bus ride. To get Downtown (Ha-lr) from the central bus
station, take bus #17 or 41; from other parts of town, take any bus in the 70s.
Almost every bus numbered 1-40 eventually stops in Hadar, but from the central
bus station, #15 and 18 run most frequently. Those in the 20s go to Carmel and
Ahuza, and #24 and 37 continue on to the University of Haifa.
SUBWAY. The best way to travel within Haifa is the Carmelit subway system
, a train slanted just enough to make the ascent or descent seem flat.
Though this subway has only one line, its six stops conquer steep hills and put
most neighborhoods within walking distance. Starting from the bottom, the sub-
way stops at Kikkar Paris, Solel Boneh, Ha-Nevi'im, Masada, Golomb, and Gan Ha-
Eim. Yellow pavilions indicate entrances. Trains run every six to seven minutes.
(Su-Th 6am-10pm, F 6am-3pm, 8pm-midnight, Sa in winter 7pm-midnight. NIS4.70
per ride for adults and children, NIS3 for seniors; 10-ride pass NIS42, NIS32.50 for
seniors and those under 18. Credit cards accepted.)