Ramla's sights are primarily religious and historical, and while they're not main-
tained tourist sights, their authenticity compensates for the disarray. Most of the
mosques and churches that comprise Ramla's multi-religion pilgrimage are
located in the center of the town, all within easy walking distance.
GREAT MOSQUE. The Crusader Cathedral of St. John became the Great Mosque
when Ramla's Muslims recaptured the town from the Crusaders. Although the
mosque consequently retains little of Muslim architecture, the well-preserved min-
aret is breathtaking, and the medieval vaulted arches are impressive. (Fram the bus
station walk right on Herzl St. turn left at the first intersection, and continue through the parking
lot toward the towering minaret. The entrance is through a small green door on the side facing the
parking lot Open Su-Th 8am-4pm.)
CHURCH OF ST. NICODEMUS AND ST. JOSEPH ARIMATHEA. Ramla is sup-
posed to be the biblical Arimathea, where one of Jesus's earliest disciples, Joseph,
is said to have lived. Together with St. Nicodemus, St. Joseph Arimathea made the
preparations for Jesus's burial. The large stone Catholic complex was built in his
honor in 1296, with money donated by European CathoUcs. Renovated in 1902, it
now serves as a school as well. The monks at the 18th-century monastery next
door claim that Napoleon Bonaparte stayed in the upstairs chambers during his
unsuccessful campaign against the Turks. (The complex is past the mosque at the corner
0f the main Herzl St and Bialik St The main gate into the church is on Bialik St.)
TOWER OF FORTY MARTYRS. To reach the Tower, follow Herzl to Danny Mass St.
Take a left on Danny Mass St. and the rectangular tower will be visible. Known as
the White Tower, this minaret was a 14th-century addition to an 8th-century
mosque, which is said to be the burial site of Muhammad's companions. A few
stone arches and this tower are all that remain of the mosque. Napoleon is pur-
ported to have coordinated his attack on Jaffa from the top of the tower. Climb the
steps to the top of the tower for a birds-eye view of Ramla and the surrounding
area. The noises inside are not the screams of the martyrs but the sounds of the
many birds who now use the tower as a nesting spot. Next to the mosque is a Mus-
lim cemetery in a state of disrepair. (Open Su-Th 8am-3pm, F8am-lpm, Sa 8am4pm.)
DIANE AND ARTHUR BELFER LIBRARY. The sparkling glass and stone library is
a remarkable, modern contrast to Ramla's other sites. The library opened in 1992
and signifies cooperative efforts between the New York Jewish community and
Ramla's residents to improve the quality of Ufe in Ramla. The books (including an
English section) are upstairs and free for in-library use by all visitors. The free
public bathrooms are the cleanest in town; there are also storage lockers upstairs
for NISI. (Past Bialik St. at the comer of Herzl St and Weizmann St s92212 87. Open Su-Th
10am-7pm, F9am-noon. NIS5 adults, students and children NIS4.)
SOUTH OF TEL AVIV
ASHKELON
Ashkelon was first settled in the 3rd millennium ВСЕ. Strategically located on
Mediterranean naval and land transport routes, it was a spoil of war for nearly
every empire of the ancient era, including the Philistines, Assyrians, Phoenicians,
Greeks, Romans, Muslims, and Crusaders. First rising to prominence as one of the
Philistines' five great cities, Ashkelon reached its zenith as an independent city-
state during the Roman period.