R FOOD. It's a good idea to eat in town before hitting the beach. There are
refreshment stands right off the ocean, but they have high prices and little variety.
Ben-Gurion has a number of cheap eats, including the falafel stand О at 10 Ben-
Gurion St. diagonally across from the central bus station. Tuvya, an Egyptian
expat who charms his patrons in English, French, Arabic, and Hebrew, serves deli-
aously fresh falafel (NIS7) and a variety of salads. There is also a supermarket in
the shopping center on the left side of Ben-Gurion St. one block before Sokolov
bt- (Open Su-Th 9am-7pm, F 9am-lpm.)
* BEACHES. The beaches in Herzliya Pituah range from the large, soft-sanded
variety to the small and rocky type. The Dabesh Beach and Arcadia Beach, near the
marina at the end of the bus line, belong to the former category and accordingly,
jjnarge admission (NIS12, children NIS8). While the size and sand of the Sidna AM
each pales in comparison, admission is free, and it is the only beach without
all-to-wall umbrella lounge-chairs. People walking the 1km from Sidna AM to
,e,DaY-beaches (to your left as you face the sea) or those claiming to stay at one
the hotels (for example, Hotel Arcadia or Hotel Ha-Sharon) are often not
required to pay. From the bus stop in Sidna Ali, the beach is up the hill and
through the gate.
The Sidna Ali beach has other reasons to visit as well. The Sidna Ali Mosque
allows modestly dressed visitors to visit when it is not prayer time. Women must
cover their heads and shorts are forbidden. After the Mamluks destroyed the area
during the Third Crusade, the mosque was named after one of Salah al-Din's sol-
diers who died in a battle on the hill on which the mosque stands.
HERMIT'S HOUSE. Herzliya's most worthwhile attraction is an inhabited sand
castle known as the Hermit's House. This fantastical residence built into the side
of a cliff by "hermit" Nissim Kakhalon is a must-see for anyone to whom "arts and
crafts" is not incompatible with Surrealism. Kakhalon claims, "I make it from my
love. I make it good." In other words, he spent 29 years turning other people's gar-
bage (tires, toys, tiles, etc.) into this hallucinogenic maze of winding tunnels,
flower-strewn antechambers, and plush gardens. Even more impressive, every-
thing in the artful interior is absolutely functional, from the bathroom ceiling made
entirely of Maccabee Beer bottles to the loveseat with a mirrored mosaic on one
side and a huge sculpted stone face on the other. Nothing goes to waste here:
Kakhalon even uses the manure from his family of goats to grow fragrant basil.
Kakhalon's tours depend on the extent to which his guests are appreciative. This
hermit is quite friendly, after all, and more showman than recluse. During the
week, Kakhalon runs a cafe serving hummus (NIS15) and smoked fish (NIS50).
(9am-sundown; hours erratic; closed for Shabbat.)
BEIT RISHONIM. Zionist history buffs may enjoy the Beit Rishonim (Founders'
Museum), 8-10 Ha-Nadiv St. From Sokolov St. turn right on Ha-Nadiv
St. and continue two blocks. The museum narrates the history of Herzliya, begin-
ning with its days as a colony in 1924, using computerized presentations as well as
items from the early settlement period. (Open M 8:30am-12:30pm and 4-6:30pm,
Tu-Th 8:30am-12:30pm. NIS8, students and children NIS4, seniors free.)