GALLERIES. Past the tourist center, a large ramp leads to the museums, restau-
rants, and galleries that make up Jaffa's artists' colony. You can also get there
by winding through the gardens, away from the sea. The 20th century hits Old
Jaffa in the playful form of the liana Goor Museum, which houses both Goor's art-
work and her personal collection. Fun and funky jewelry, sculptures, and furni-
ture (including a piano painted in psychedelic colors) are spread throughout the
artist's home; the bookshelf in Goor's sitting room is also worth a browse. (4
Mazal Dagim St. s683 76 76. Open Su-Th and Sa lOamSpm, F 10am-4pm. NIS24, students
and seniors NIS20.)
A little further down the same road, Studio Hundleman, sells silk-screen originals
depicting scenes of Israel and Hasidic Jewish life. The friendly owners are happy
to answer questions and explain their techniques. Miniatures are affordable at
US$10-30. (14 Mazal Dagim St s683 45 93. Open Su-Th 10:30am-10:30pm, F 10:30am-sun-
down, Sa sundown-10:30pm. Ring the bell.)
Another spot worth a browse is the Frank Meisler Gallery, home of kitschy, inter-
active, extremely expensive sculptures made of gold, silver, bronze, and pewter.
Check out the human figurines whose stomachs open up to expose what "they're
really made of-usually sexy women and lascivious goodies. (25 Mazal Arie St
m681 35 02. Open Su-Th 9am-llpm, F9am-4pm, Sa 6pm-llpm.)
JAFFA PORT. The port, past the bottom of the artists' colony to the right along
Pasteur St. was the perfect depth for King Solomon when he imported rafts of
cedars from Lebanon to build his temple. It was too shallow, however, for larger
ships- The infamous port caused Dutch sailors to term the impossible as "entering
Jaffa" Today, the port is more accessible and is an active fisherman's wharf.
SHUK HA-PISHPESHIM. Back in town, Jaffa's large Shuk Ha-Pishpeshim (Flea
Market) is one of the livelier markets in Israel, with roofed rows of overflowing
stalls offering dust-covered Middle Eastern knick-knacks, hand-dyed clothing,
Persian carpets, leather goods, and brassware. A vast selection of enormous
nargilah (waterpipes) is also available. The shuk is squeezed between Olei Tzion
and Beit Eshel St. It's busiest on Fridays when special permits are not required and
is closed on Saturdays. For tips on bargaining, see The Fine Art of Haggling,
(To reach the flea market, go one block past the clocktower along Yefet St, and turn left.)
TAYELET. Heading in the opposite direction from the clocktower brings you to the
southern end of the tayelet which, since it was extended to Jaffa in 1999, has made
the beach there more accessible but also more crowded.
NEAR TEL AVIV
HERZLIYA
Named after Theodore Herzl by the seven Zionist pioneers who settled the area
(see Zionism, 0), Herzliya is more colloquially known as "the Bank of Israel"
because of the affluent tourists and Israeli vacationers who flock to its beautiful
shores. In the never-ending battle for the "best beach in Israel" title, Herzliya is a
prime contender. Only 15km outside of Tel Aviv, Herzliya makes a great daytrip
from the city; it's a good thing too, because there are no budget accommodations.
EH ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. HerzUya's bus station is
at the corner of Ben-Gurion St. and Ha-Atzma'ut Rd. Buses #501 (35min. every
20mi:30am-ll:30pm, NIS7) and 502 (30min. every 15miam-7pm, NIS7) run
between Herzliya and Tel Aviv. They stop running at around 5:30pm on Friday and
start again at 8:20pm on Saturday. The town's cultural hub, the Yad Labanim Memo-
rial Center, is at the comer of Ben-Gurion St. and Ha-Banim St.; from the bus station,
head two blocks left along Ben-Gurion St. The main shopping area in Herzliya can
be found by turning right from the central bus station, and making a left onto
Sokolov St. after a few blocks. City bus #29 goes to the beaches in Herzliya's sub-
urb, Herzliya Pituah. (10-30min. depending on traffic, NIS5).