Talk to the
priest here about going to Christmas midnight mass in Bethlehem. Open M-F 9am-
noon and 3:30-5:30pm, Sa 9am-noon. The Swedish Christian Study Center , next door to the Christian Information
Center (closer to David St.), features a sunny reading room and library and a 360-
degree rooftop view. Primarily for Swedes, but the friendly staff will answer questions
for anyone in a bind. Open M-Sa 9am-lpm. The Jewish Student Information Center,
5 Beit El St. , in Hurva Sq. in the Jewish Quarter. Run by the friendly and
enthusiastic 24hr.-a-day, one-man info factory Jeff Seidel, who also gives guided tours
of the underground Kotel tunnels. He may want to discuss religion. Shabbat home
hospitality available with Orthodox Jewish families. The center sells the comprehen-
sive Jewish Student's Travel Guide (US$9) with religious information for most coun-
tries around the world.
Guided Tours: The highly recommended Zion Walking Tours offers 8 inexpensive guided routes on different days of the
week in and around the Old City. Their most popular tour is of the four quarters of the
Old City (3hr.; daily 9, Ham, and 2pm; US$10, students US$9, entry fees included).
Their office is located right inside Jaffa Gate, opposite the Tower of David. Israel
Archaeological Seminars, 34 Habad St. in the Jewish Quarter, offers walking tours
in addition to day-long archaeology excursions all over Israel. A guided tour of the polit-
ically sensitive Western Wall tunnels requires reserving a ticket in advance for an hour-
long tour (NIS30-40). Individuals are not permitted to enter the tunnels or excavations
without a guide. Probably the most
popular tour offered from the Old City is not of the Old City-most hostels organize daily
sunrise tours of the Dead Sea area (3am-3pm). Run by Alternative Palestine Tours.
(NIS90 for transportation and guide; admission and food not included.)
Banks: Bank Mizrahl, 26 Tiferet Yisrael St. in the Jewish
Quarter. Look for the blue sign in Hurva Sq. Hefty commission for foreign exchange.
Open Su-Th 9am-2pm and 5-7pm; M, W, F 9am-noon. Has the only ATM and automated
currency exchange machine in the entire Old City. There are money changers around
the Old City that have lower rates but don't charge commission; make sure they don't
give you old bills, which are not accepted at most establishments.
EMERGENCY AND COMMUNICATION
Police: . Inside Jaffa Gate to the right, next to the Tower of Davi4hr.
Pharmacies: Jaffa Gate Pharmacy , the first left from Jaffa Gate, immedi-
ately on the right. Open daily 9am-8pm. Habash Pharmacy, 104 al-Wad St. in the Muslim Quarter. Open daily 8:30am-8pm.
Medical assistance: Austrian-Arab Community Clinic, Qanatar Khadeir Rd. («627 32
46), off al-Wad St. in the Muslim Quarter, and across the street from the Austrian Hos-
pice. Open Sa-W 8am-7pm, Th 8am-4pm. Kupat Holim , in the Jewish
Quarter above the Cardo and across from Hurva Sq. Hours are erratic.