il Said Abou Elafia and Sons, 7 Yefet St. , one block behind the Jaffa clock-
tower. Popularly known as "Aboulafia," this bakery is so famous that its name is used by
Israelis to denote all stuffed-pita foods. Try zatar-spiced toasts, flaky Iraqi pita with
cheese, or honey-drenched baklava, for NIS3-8. Take-out only. Open 24hr. Cash only. О
Ш Parabin Yafo, 20 Ogan St. , in the port, about 400m past the fancy fish
restaurants. Feel like a sheikh, or at least incredibly chic, while lounging on pillows and
puffing nargilah (NIS17) in this cavernous, lantern-lit hideaway. A late-night staple
among the locals, there's a line from 10pm on of large groups vying for their huge sal-
ads (NIS25-27), creamy hummus plates (NIS12-18), and an orgasmic chocolate cake
(NIS24). Open Sa-Th 8:15pm-3am, F 10:45pm-6am. Credit cards accepted. в
Shipudei Itzik Hagadol/Big Itzik's Skewers, 3 Raziel St. , a couple
blocks before the clocktower. Sign in Hebrew only; look for green neon. Hungry locals
meet, greet, and eat skewered meat at this clean, friendly establishment. Herbivores
and carnivores can achieve peaceful coexistence over a sampler platter of 18 salads
(NIS14 per person), sizzling kebabs (NIS15 each), and huge, warm pita. Open Sa-Th
Ham-la
Dr. Shakshuka, 3 Beit Eshel , corner of Yefet St. Libyan food in the heart
of Old Jaffa. Eponymous dish is the shakshuka-a mouth watering tomato and egg con-
coction (NIS18). Open Su-Th 9am-lam, F 9am-sundown, Sa sundown-midnight.
liana Goor Museum Cafe, 4 Mazal Dagim St. Situated in the heart of the
artists' colony, this rooftop cafe overlooking the port is the trendiest place to grab a bite
in the Old City. Take in the artsy ambiance that makes the NIS10 cup of coffee seem
7844
worth it. Don't miss the great museum downstairs (see liana Goor Museum, below).
Open Su-Th, Sa 10am-6pm; F 10am-4pm.
jg sights_
CLOCKTOWER AND ENVIRONS. Built in 1906 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of
Sultan Abdul Hamid IPs ascension to power, the clocktower marks the entrance to
Jaffa from Tel Aviv. Originally, the clocktower's four faces were split between
Israeli and European time for the convenience of European sailors. On the right of
the clocktower is the al-Mahmudiyya Mosque, an enormous structure erected in
1812 that only Muslims may enter. Head to the right and up the hill along the
Mifratz Shlomo Promenade to the Museum of Antiquities of Tel Aviv-Jaffa, which con-
tains artifacts from Neolithic to Roman times and a collection of coins found in the
area.
KIKKAR KEDUMIM. The old city's tourist center is Kikkar Kedumim. Following
signs to the Visitors Center, head down to the underground plaza to the excava-
tions from 2300-year-old Tel Yafo, get a short history lesson, and pick up free
maps. (Continue along Mifratz Shlomo past the Napoleonic Cannons, pass the Church of St.
Peter and go up a large staircase. Open Su-Th 9am-10pm, F9am-2pm, Sa Wam-lOpm. Free.
Church open daily 8-11:45am and 3-5pm; public masses in English Sa 8pm and Su 9am.)
To the right of the Kikkar, just before the cafes and shops, a small alleyway
leads to the colorful Greek Orthodox Church of St. Michael, worth a brief tour. (Open
daily 8-ll:45am and 3-5pm.)
HA-PIGSA GARDENS. The wooden footbridge from Kikkar Kedumim leading to
the gardens is used by both Arab and Jewish couples to take wedding pictures (Tu
and Th evenings are especially busy). The gardens contain a small, modern amphi-
theater for summer concerts, an excavation of an 18th-century ВСЕ Hyksos town
and a later Egyptian city, as well as a look-out point. The point offers Jaffa's best
view of the coast, Tel Aviv, and Andromeda's Rock.