bought a section of the ruins, eventually transforming them into today's galleries.
An Israeli folk song describes Jaffa as possessing a "mysterious and unknown" ele-
ment that allows its atmosphere "to seep like wine into the blood." Indeed, Jaffa's
stone houses, cobblestone alleys, and charming galleries do intoxicate.
gl orientation_
The Jaffa Clocktower, completed in 1906, stands by the entrance to Jaffa from Tel
Aviv and is a useful landmark. A free 2-hour tour of Old Jaffa by the Tourism Asso-
ciation begins here Wednesday at 9:30am, though many people line up at 9am. Bus
#46 from the New Central Bus Station lets off in front of the clocktower, and bus
#10 from Ben-Yehuda St. or Allenby St. near the Opera Tower, stops just a couple
minutes before it. A couple blocks past the clocktower, head right and the road
becomes the Mifratz Shlomo Promenade, which leads to the Old City and provides
stunning views of Tel Aviv's action-packed coast and skyline. Alternatively, a left
turn onto Beit Eshel St. will you bring you to the shuk.
[7 accommodations_
If all the beds in Tel Aviv are full, or if you just want something that feels a little
less like a college dorm, the two hostels in Jaffa provide fabulous alternatives.
g Old Yafo Hostel, 8 Olei Tzion St. Walk one block past the clocktower on Yefet St. and turn left onto Olei
Tzion St. It's rare that a hostel feels enchantingly antique without an accompanying
layer of grime, but the Old Yafo manages superbly. Fully stocked bookshelves and a
large rooftop garden make for delightful finishing touches. Kitchen available. Storage
for non-guests NISI. Laundry NIS10. Internet NIS10 for 15min. Reception 8am-llpm.
Check-out noon. No curfew, but lights off at 11pm. Payment in any major foreign cur-
rency avoids 17% VA-bed dorms (coed or female-only) NIS40/US$8.50. Singles
NIS147/US$30; with TV, bath, A/C, and kitchen NIS226/US$46. Doubles NIS168/
US$34; with TV, bath, A/C, and kitchen NIS246/US$50. Curfew 11pm.
Belt Immanuel Hostel, 8 Auerbach St. From the clocktower, head
toward Tel Aviv on Raziel St. for 5min. until it turns into Eilat St. Turn right after 12 Eilat
St. onto Auerbach St. On bus #46, get off on Eilat St. near the gas stations. This family-
oriented Christian hospice has a garden and playground. Breakfast included. Dinner
NIS40. Shabbat NIS60. Laundry NIS10. Reception 7am-llpm. Check-in 3pm. Check-
out 1pm. Lockout lOam-noon. Curfew 11pm. All rooms have A/C. Dorms NIS48/
US$12; singles with bath NIS180/US$45; doubles with bath NIS280/US$70.
f] food_
The maze of narrow streets surrounding the Jaffa Clocktower is peppered with
cheap falafel stands (NIS7-10), al-ha'esh (barbecue) meat establishments, and
sweets vendors, some of which are open 24-hours. The cafes and restaurants in
the Old City tend to be generic, but the surrounding gardens and views of the Med-
iterranean make them some of the loveliest tourist traps imaginable. For a touch
of romance and a big hit to the wallet, head to Jaffa Port, off Pasteur St. on the far
side of the artists' colony, where picturesque waterfront restaurants offer seafood
so fresh the gills are almost moving (daily catch entrees NIS42 and up). Jaffa is
also one of the best places to get a great meal on Shabbat.