Bight kilometers of sandy beach and wide, palm-tree-lined boulevards give Ash-
dod the feel of a Florida beach resort. The Philistines made Ashdod the capital of
their great trade empire 2000 years ago. Today, Ashdod's port retains its role as an
important commercial center, but the city is also in the midst of a building boom in
hopes of attracting more tourists. Ashdod's central bus station adjoins the glisten-
ing Merkaz Ha-lr mall, where Domino's and McDonald's compete for the attention
of the largely Russian-speaking population. Ashdod is spread far out and up, with
clusters of white high-rise apartment buildings interspersed with palm trees. A
stroll down Shavei Tzion St. leads to a beach complete with boardwalk and
marina All day Wednesday, there is a market on the beach; otherwise it is remark-
ably clean and deserted on weekdays. To get to the main drag of pricey shops,
cafes, and restaurants on Rogozin St. take bus #8 (NIS4) from the bus station.
Ashdod's history lives on at the small but well-kept Corine Maman Ashdod
Museum, 16 Ha-Shayatim St. with its multimedia exhibit on the world of Philis-
tines. Get off the Tel Aviv bus or local bus #8 at the old central bus station (a few
stops before the new one). In apparent deference to past philistinism, the current
residents have erected large signs at major intersections that point the wrong way;
ignore these. Take a right on Keren Ha-Yesod, another right on Ha-Shayatim St.
and then follow the signs from there. (Open Su-Th
9am-4pm, Sa 10:30am-l:30pm. Call ahead to see the video in English.)
At this time there is only one hotel in Ashdod, though plans for more are in the
works. The Hotel Orly 0, 22 Nordau St. is two blocks
from Miami Beach and accessible from bus #8. It is a bit pricey but its rooms are
very comfortable with A/C, cable TV, and refrigerator, and many have a view of the
ocean. (Singles US$65; doubles US$80; suites US$100. Breakfast included.)
Miami Beach and Lido Beach are where the hippest crowds gather on Friday
and Saturday nights. The Thai-Town Beach Bar Restaurant by the prominent white
tower is open 24 hours, 7 days a week, and on weekend nights you can hang out at
the bar at the top of the tower. (Beer NIS15.)
JAFFA (YAFO) is* LaL
According to the Bible, the recalcitrant prophet Jonah shirked his divine calling
and fled to Jaffa to catch that fated boat to Tarshish (Jonah 1:3). Jaffa makes an
appearance in the New Testament as well; it was here that Peter had a vision tell-
ing him that the Gospel extended outside the confines of Judaism and that the
dietary laws no longer applied. The standard repertoire of conquerors stomped
through Jaffa. In 1468 ВСЕ, the Egyptians captured Jaffa by hiding soldiers in
human-sized clay jars brought into the city market. King David conquered the city
around 1000 ВСЕ, and under Solomon it became the main port of Judea until King
Herod's Caesarea usurped that title. In the 12th century CE, the First Crusaders,
Salah al-Din, Richard the Lionheart, the Muslims, and Louis IX all had a go at the
city. Finally, in 1267 the Mamluks overpowered the city, and, apart from a brief
stay by Napoleon around 1800, Jaffa remained an Arab stronghold.
The first Jewish settlers, who were mostly merchants and artisans from North
Africa, arrived in 1820 and built the "Jewish House," a temporary hostel. The
increased settlement of the area encountered protest, and in 1929,1936, and 1939,
Jaffa was the scene of anti-Zionist riots. When Jewish fighters captured the Arab
section of Jaffa in 1948, most of Jaffa's Arab population fled the city. Jaffa was offi-
cially incorporated into the Tel Aviv municipality in 1950.
After the 1948 War, Jaffa was left in rains, and the areas around it filled with
Prostitution, drugs, and crime. In the late 1960s, the Tel Aviv Municipality decided
to turn Jaffa into an artists' colony to clean it up. Under the auspices of the Old
Jaffa Development Company, whose name is still on many signs today, each artist