Serves good toasts (NIS22-27) and Eastern European food. Open daily 9am-10pm.
Cafe Nordau, 145 Ben-Yehuda St. , on the corner of Arlozorov. Good food
in generous portions served to a largely, but not exclusively, gay clientele; distributes
Hazman Havarod (Tel Aviv's gay newspaper) and provides current info on gay life and
hot spots. Full meals NIS36-44. Open M-W 8am-lam, Th-Su 24hr.
My Coffee Shop and Bar, 39 Allenby St. , on the corner of Bialik St. is
the place to go after a night of clubbing. Coffee NIS9. For a few more shekels get cara-
mel cream, coconut, and mocha concoctions. Open 24hr.
Orna Ve' Ella, 33 Sheinkin St. Sheinkin sophisticates line up for a table
at this elegant cafe. Delectable food served in somewhat stingy portions, but home-
made sorbets (NIS18) and innovative chilled soups (NIS20) make a nice snack. Open
Su-Th lOam-midnight, F 10am-5pm, Sa llam-12:30am.
3 SIGHTS_
ROOFTOP OBSERVATORY. When haggling, shoving, and sunning take their toll,
rise above it all. Look down on the chaos of the market and the city from the
observatory in Migdal Shalom. The tower rises 34 stories skyward and the pent-
house affords a breathtaking view, although the gating does give it a somewhat
caged-in feel. The mosaic walls were made by artists Nahum Gutan and David
Sharir. (1 Herzl St.andAhad Ha-Am St. Enter through the Eastern Wing beneath the underpass.
NIS15, students and seniors NIS10.)
KIKKAR YITZHAK RABIN. Formerly Kikkar Malkhei Yisrael (Kings of Israel Sq.),
the square was renamed in 1995 in memory of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin. On
November 4,1995, Rabin was assassinated by Yigal Amir, a Jewish student, during
a crowded peace rally. The square has since drawn mourners who have painted
large portraits of Rabin and left candles, flowers, and poetry. The official memo-
rial, surrounded by five years' worth of candlewax, is next to the City Hall. (Just off
Ibn Gviml St. between Arlozorov St. and Ben-Gurlon St)
DIZENGOFF SQUARE. The capital of the maze that is Dizengoff St. hosts an ever-
changing scene, from retirees feeding pigeons in the midday sun to late-night
punks cluttering the overpass stairs. The revolving, multicolored, fire-spitting,
fountain, designed by illustrious Israeli artist Agam, crowns the square in an unsur-
passed celebration of municipal kitsch. The tunes come from the fountain itself,
which orchestrates its own hourly multimedia show to music ranging from Ravel's
Bolero to Israeli folk songs. (At the intersection of Dizengoff St. Ben-Ami St, and PinskerSt.)
GREAT SYNAGOGUE. Completed in 1926 and renovated in 1970, this huge domed
building showcases arches and stained-glass windows that are replicas of those
from European synagogues destroyed during the Holocaust. (110 Allenby St. near the
corner with Rothschild Blvd. в 560 49 05 or 560 40 66. Open Su-F 10am-5pm, Sa 7:30-
11:30am. Sa prayer open to the public; head coverings and modest dress required.)
Near the synagogue is Independence Hall, where the founding of the State of
Israel was proclaimed in 1948. (16 Rothschild Blvd. s 517 39 42. Open Su-Th 9am-2pm.)
ZOOLOGICAL CENTER. This combination drive-through safari park, circus, and
zoo features 250 acres of African game in a natural habitat. Stare over a wadi at
impossibly cute gorillas and Syrian bears, or let an ostrich poke its head into your
car for a bite of candy. People without picnics can have lunch at the moderately
priced restaurant, and those without a car can ride the park's own vehicles
through the habitat. Pedestrian tours are offered as well. (In Ramat Gan. Take bus #30,
35, or 43 from Tel Aviv or bus #67 within Ramat Gan. From the bus stop, go 0.5km down Ha-Tzvi
Blvd. with the park on your right; the zoo entrance is on the right, к631 21 81 or 674 49 81.