For a more civilized experience than that of the deep-fried and dripping tahini
sort, there are several options. In Little Tel Aviv, bistros offering Eastern European,
Middle Eastern, and Far Eastern fare at fairly reasonable prices line Yermiyahu St.
which runs between Dizengoff and Ben-Yehuda, just before they intersect. Much
more expensive fish restaurants are nearby in the port. Some of the most authentic
and cheap food can be found in Kerem Ha-Temanim (the Yemenite Quarter), along
Ge'ula St. and Ha-Rav Kook St. Small red-roofed houses on narrow streets offer sal-
ads and pita (NIS10), spicy meats (NIS20-35), and fried dough snacks (NIS15-25).
Israelis flock from nearby cities to the Shechunat Ha-Tikva area for the outdoor
cafes and restaurants selling cheap beer and their renowned chicken, lamb, and
beef kebab. Take bus #15, 16, or 41 to Ha-Tikva-it's too far and unsafe to walk.
The Ha-Tikva Market, between Ezel St. and Ha-Tikva St. just below Ha-Hagana St.
is a carnivore's carnival or a vegetarian's hell. The market also sells some of the
freshest produce available in the city. Closer to the center of town, reluctant
spenders should shop at the large, outdoor Shuk Ha-Carmel. When coming from
Allenby, the produce carts are toward the back. To catch prices at their lowest
(and crowds at their rowdiest), shop an hour or two before the beginning of Shab-
bat. Dizengoff Center hosts a food fair where people sell their homemade good-
ies-everything from Greek baklava (NIS1-3) to Chinese dumplings (NIS12 for 6.
Open Th 6-10pm, F 10am-4pm.) Supermarkets can be found throughout town.
Supersol, 79 Ben-Yehuda St. near Gordon St. may be the most convenient. (Open
Su-M 7am-midnight, Tu-Th 24hr. Sa after sundown.) Co-op has supermarket
branches right in Dizengoff Sq. in the basement of the Ha-Mashbir department
store in Dizengoff Center. (Open daily 7am-8pm.)
The restaurants listed take credit cards unless otherwise noted.
Ш Itzik Ve'Ruthie, 53 Sheinkin St. , serves the most scrumptious sand-
wiches (NIS5-15) in the city. The homemade soda (NIS2) alone is worth squeezing past
House НИ
: KIKKAR ATARIM Ben-Gunon
™ Museum и
all the locals crammed into this tiny shop. Open Su-Th
5am-4pm, F 5am-2pm. в
1 Falafel 101, 99 Dizengoff St. near the corner of
Frischmann St. should be the model for all other
falafel stands. For NIS10, get piping-hot falafel, a large
selection of salads, and a drink. Open Su-Th Sam-mid-
night, F 8am-4pm. No credit cards. О
Big Mama, 13 Najara St. Look for the
blue and red neon sign on the back right corner of the
walkway behind Allenby 58. Gobble down the best
pizza this side of Italy (NIS25-34), or try one of the
indulgently creamy pasta dishes (NIS28-34). Open Su
noon-2am, M-W and F noon-3am, Th noon-4am.
A Taste of Life, 60 Ben-Yehuda St. A
vegan paradise run by members of the Black Hebrew
community, a group whose dietary laws prohibit both
milk and meat (see Dlmona, 06). Entrees like
wheatfurters, veggie shawarma, and soy barbecue
twists served a la carte (NIS15) or with two sides and a
salad (NIS42). Cleanse your palate on the excellent
soymilk ice cream (NIS6.50) and other non-dairy, no-
egg desserts. Open Su-Th 9am-llpm, F 9am-3pm, Sa
after sundown-midnight.
Hungarian Blintze5 Yermiyahu St. («544 16 97 or
605 06 74), near the port. Turn right off Dizengoff St.
and continue for a block. Locals jonesing for Hungarian
goulash blintzes (NIS32) flock to this intimate bistro.
Sweeter options like jam (NIS25) and poppy seed
cream (NIS30) also available. Open Su-Th lpm-lam,
Sa sundown-lam. в
Yotvata Ba'lr, 78 Herbert Samuel St.
There's a green and orange neon sign off the tayelet.
Kibbutz Yotvata, renowned producers of dairy goods,
ventures into the city with this well-lit oasis of fresh veg-
gies, cheeses, and fruits. Menu highlights include salads large enough to feed a small
army (NIS45-47) and pancakes masquerading as sundaes (NIS27-39). Open daily
7am-3am.