Car Rental: Many rental companies have offices on or near King David St. not far from the
Hilton and King David Hotel. All prices include full insurance. Many companies increase
their prices during July-Sept. sometimes by as much as US$15 per day. Budget, 23 King
David St. has cars starting at US$45
per day, US$40 per day for 3-day rentals, including unlimited mileage; 23+. Eldan, 24
King David St. has one-day rentals beginning at US$38
(100km included), US$38 per day for one week or longer with unlimited mileage. Super-
drive, 10 King David St. (»625 08 43), rents to drivers 18 and older. US$50 per day,
US$48 for 3 days. July-Aug. US$60 per day. Drivers ages 21-22 pay US$17 extra per
day, age 18-20 US$35 extra. Credit cards accepted. Open Su-Th 8am-6pm, F 8am-
lpm. Call ahead.
It getting around
Most distances in Jerusalem make for reasonable, pleasant walks, for those who
don't mind the heat and the hills (see Walking Tours of the Old City, 14). All sec-
tions of the city are easily reachable by bus from the central bus station (info tt 530
47 04) on Jaffa Rd. west of city center just past the Mahaneh Yehuda district (NIS5
per ride within Jerusalem; NIS47 kartisia buys 11 rides, 20 for those under 18).
Jerusalem has largely remained safe for Westerners, and the anti-American
rhetoric sweeping much of the Middle East has been unable to compete with
the much more visceral anti-Israel sentiment to prove a threat to Americans
or other Western tourists. East Jerusalem, however, is not a recommended
place for practicing Hebrew or for flaunting one's Judaism. The same admo-
nition need be noted for speaking Arabic in West Jerusalem. Tensions on all
sides have reached new inflammatory levels, and even a slight provocation
is best avoided, especially after a military operation in the West Bank or
Gaza or immediately following a bomb attack (piguah in Hebrew).
Jerusalem, revered by diverse peoples around the globe, has survived
more than three thousand years of various regimes, conquests, and rule.
The question remains where this current struggle will lead and how Jerus-
alem will emerge. While there are surely enough reasons to be resigned to
hopelessness, there are ephemeral moments when even a hardened cynic
may not help but feel a shimmer of hope. Every Friday night in Jerusalem,
just minutes before the Jewish Sabbath begins, a siren blares that can be
heard throughout most of the western downtown area. This aural reminder
of the onset of the Jewish holy day is followed by a sense of quiet and
calm. Whatever one's religion or political affiliations, it is in silent, reflec-
tive moments of respite such as these that it may still be possible to
believe that there will indeed arrive to this ancient city of holiness,
beauty, and bloodshed, the much-anticipated and now seemingly elusive
salam-shalom-peace.
Danny Labin graduated from the Harvard Graduate School of Education in
2000. He is currently living in Jerusalem, where he is producing educational
media aimed at delivering messages of mutual respect and understanding to
the region's children.