CRAFTS
Israel is home to many accomplished artisans. Pieces are often made from olive-
wood, Jerusalem stone, and other native materials. Most of the best deals are
found in the Old City; in West Jerusalem, art stores with higher quality (and higher
priced) items line the midrahov. At Kakadu, 1 Rivlin St. Reut Shaher hand-designs
beautiful pinewood trays, notebook covers, and other gift items with elegant,
whimsical animal motifs. (Credit
cards accepted.) Lifeline for the Old, 14 Shivtei Yisrael St. behind the Municipality,
is a small workshop and market selling high-quality crafts produced by the elderly
and disabled. Proceeds are used to fund the project and to provide support ser-
vices for Lifeline's workers,
Open Su-Th 9am-6pm and F 9am-12:30pm, in winter Su-Th
9am-4pm and F 9am-12:30pm.)
JUDAICA
If you're looking for menorot, mezuzot, kippot, or other ritual items, this is the
right city. The Talmud says it is not enough to fulfill the commandments; one
must beautify the ritual with pieces of art. As a result, making ceremonial objects
has been a practical outlet for talented Jewish artists. Rows of inexpensive Juda-
ica shops crowd the streets of Mea She'arim. Chen Eilat, 11 Mea She'arim, has a
huge selection of cheap hallah covers, tallit bags, and other things Jewish. («537
01 28. Open Su-Th 9am-8pm, F 9am-2pm. Credit cards accepted.) Slightly higher
quality goods can be found in the Ben-Yehuda midrahov. Most shops will person-
alize items like knitted kippot within two days. For truly high-quality merchan-
dise, head to the Jewish Quarter Cardo, where the craftsmanship, individuality,
and price of Judaica skyrockets. Here, too, however, great deals can be found:
mezuzot carved out of Jerusalem stone are as low as US$3.
MUSIC
The cheapest place to buy CDs and tapes in Jerusalem is in the shuk of the Old
City's Muslim Quarter. Unfortunately, most merchandise is pirated; there have
been reports of tourists being fined for such purchases, although this is rare. Pic-
adelly Music, 4 Shatz St. right off Ben-Yehuda St. on the midrahov, has a good
selection of Israeli and international CDs, often at discount prices. («624 79 83.
Open Su-Th 8:30am-8pm, F-8:30am-3pm, Sa sundown-10pm.) For a larger selec-
tion, try Tower Records, 19 Hillel St. (Open Su-Th lOam-lOpm, F 9:30am-4pm.) There
is another branch at the Kenyon Yerashalayim shopping mall.
NEAR JERUSALEM
Overlooking the Judean hills west of Jerusalem, the Arab village of Abu Ghosh is
revered by Christians and Jews alike as an early site of the Ark of the Covenant,
which King David later moved to Jerusalem (I Chronicles 13:5-8). In caravan days,
the town was the last stop on the way to Jerusalem; its 18th-century namesake,
Sheikh Abu Ghosh, required pilgrims to pay a toll here as they traveled to the Holy
City. Historically, the Arabs of the village have always had good relations with
neighboring Jewish settlements and the State of Israel, even during the 1948 War.
п! GETTING THERE. To get to Abu Ghosh, take Egged bus #185 or 186 (45min.;
every 30min. Su-Th 6:10am-10:15pm, F 6:10am-4:45pm, NIS8.30) from the central
bus station and get out at the crest of the road, just past the restaurants. Sherut
traveling between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv will stop at the turnoff, 2km downhill
from Abu Ghosh, for roughly the same price.