JERUSALEM FOREST AND EIN KEREM. The scenic Jerusalem Forest and the
pastoral village of Ein Kerem, just west of Mount Herzl, are perfect for picnics and
short hikes. Formerly an Arab village, tiny Ein Kerem (Fountain of Vines) is the
traditionally recognized birthplace of John the Baptist. The tranquil streets of this
thriving artists' colony are now lined with charming studios and craftshops. (To get
to the village, take city bus #17, west from the central bus station or Zion Sq. Every 20-30min.)
The Church of St. John, with its soaring clocktower, marks the spot where John
was born. The church displays several paintings, including the Decapitation of
Saint John. In the church's Grotto of the Nativity there is a lovely Byzantine mosaic
of pheasants-the symbol of the Eucharist. Ask the guardian for a key. (-R 641 36
39. Open Apr.-Sept. Su-F8am-6pm; Oct.-Mar. Su-F 8am-5pm. Free.)
Across the valley, down Ma'ayan St. from St. John's gate, the Church of the Visita-
tion recalls Mary's visit to Elizabeth and contains a rock behind which the infant
St. John hid when the Romans came to kill babies. (s641 72 91. Open May-Sept. Su-F
8am-6pm; Oct.-Apr. Su-F8am-5pm. Free.) The newer Upper Chapel depicts the glorifica-
tion of Mary. The pink tower belongs to the Russian Monastery. («625 25 65 or 641
28 87; only Russian spoken. Visit by appointment only.)
HADASSAH MEDICAL CENTER. The synagogue at the Hadassah Medical Center,
near Ein Kerem (not to be confused with Hadassah Hospital on Mount Scopus),
houses the magnificent Chagall Windows, Marc Chagall's fantastical stained-glass
depictions of scenes from Genesis 49 and Deuteronomy 33. Chagall donated the
windows to the hospital in 1962. When four of the windows were damaged in the
1967 War, Chagall was sent an urgent cable. He replied, "You worry about the war,
I'll worry about my windows." Two years later he installed replacements. Three of
the windows still contain bullet holes. (From Jaffa Rd. take bus #27 or 19 to the end,
about 45min. s677 62 71. Synagogue open Su-Th 8am-l:15pm and 2-3:45pm, F8am-lpm.
NIS10, students and seniors with ID NIS5. Free tours in English Su-Th every h:30am-12:30pm
and 2:30pm, Fevery h:30-ll:30am.)
JEWISH NATIONAL FUND TREE-PLANTING CENTER. About 4km behind the hos-
pital is a Jewish National Fund tree-planting center. Follow the orange "Planting
Center" signs (or take a taxi). You can plant your own tree and participate in the
program that has reforested vast tracts of land in northern Israel, Trees US$10 each. Open Su-Th 8:30am-3pm, F
8:30am-noon.)
EAST JERUSALEM
GARDEN TOMB. The skull-shaped rock formations here, first noticed in 1860 by
Otto Thenius, have led some to believe that this quarry hillside is Golgotha (the
"place of the skull"), the site of Christ's crucifixion. A nearby rock-cut tomb is that
of Joseph of Arimathea, who placed Jesus's body in his own tomb after the Cruci-
fixion. A group of Christians not affiliated with any one church now maintains the
lovely garden that surrounds Skull Hill and the empty tomb. (A short distance up Nab-
lus Rd. on the right when coming from Damascus Gate; follow the signs, Open M-Sa 8:30am-noon and 2-5:30pm. All are invited to attend the English
service Su 9am. Free, but donations encouraged.)
BASILICA OF ST. STEPHEN. The stately but seldom-visited basilica was conse-
crated in 439 CE. Impressive paintings of the 14 stations of the cross line the inte-
rior. The church runs an elementary school, within the high protective walls. (6
Nablus Rd. just past the Garden Tomb.No regular visiting hours, just ring the bell.)