JERUSALEM 38

TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS. This site is the supposed resting-place of the proph-
ets Malachi and Haggai. Archaeological evidence, however, suggests that the
graves are far too recent-probably dating from the 4th century CE. The glass-
enclosed home on the premises is the residence of the caretaker, who will show
visitors around downstairs with a kerosene lamp if asked. (With your back to the Seven
Arches, turn right and go down the gray cement path to the left. Several meters down, a large
green gate on the left leads to two cavernous tunnels. Open Su-F 8am-3pm.)
To the left of the tombs is an easy-to-miss orange sign with rubbed-off black let-
tering marking "This Common Grave" of those who died defending the Jewish
Quarter in 1948. Next to the Common Grave lies the National Cemetery, and farther
down the path sprawls the immense Jewish Graveyard, the largest Jewish cemetery
in the world. Take the stone staircase on the left for another small observation
point and access to the Jewish graves.
SANCTUARY OF DOMINUS FLEVIT. The sanctuary was erected in 1955 to mark
the spot where Jesus wept for Jerusalem (Luke 19:41); hence the Latin name
meaning "The Lord wept." The chapel incorporates a Byzantine mosaic and altar;
the apse end is one large window, with a dazzling view of the Dome of the Rock.
The glass shards of broken liquor bottles cemented to the top of the walls serve to
protect the property from trespassers. (Downhill from the Tombs of the Prophets, on the
right. Open Mar.-May 8am-5pm, June-Ocam-6pm.)
RUSSIAN CHURCH OF MARY MAGDALENE. Czar Alexander III built the church
in 1885 in the lavish 17th-century Muscovite style and dedicated it to his mother,
the Empress Maria Alexandrovna. It is adorned with seven golden onion domes.
The crypt houses the body of a Russian grand duchess, smuggled to Jerusalem via
Beijing after her death in the Russian Revolution. Now a convent, the church
claims a part of the Garden of Gethsemane. (Past the Sanctuary of Dominus Hevit. « 628
43 71. Ordinarily open Tu and Th lOam-noon.)
CHURCH OF ALL NATIONS AND THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. Built with
contributions from many European countries, the Church of All Nations faces
west toward the Old City. Among its highlights is a magnificent gold and red
facade portraying Jesus bringing peace to all nations. Inside, mosaics and sculp-
tures depict Jesus' last days, including the proverbial kiss of death, but the real
highlight is the Rock of the Agony, where Jesus was so impassioned that he sweat
blood (Luke 22:44). Although the site has been venerated since the 4th century, the
present building, designed by Barluzzi, was built after World War I. The garden
outside is where Jesus spent his last night in prayer and was betrayed by Judas
(Mark 14:32-43). (The church is on the left near the bottom of the main path; the entrance is on
the side. Open daily Apr.-Ocam-noon and 2:30-6pm; Nov.-Maam-noon and 2:30-5pm.)
TOMB OF THE VIRGIN MARY AND GROTTO OF GETHSEMANE. The steep stairs
down to Mary's tomb were built to prevent pagans from riding horses into the
sacred space. To the right, the natural grotto is another candidate for the site of
Jesus' betrayal and arrest. (At the bottom of the main path, on the right. Open daily 8am-
noon and 2:30-5:30pm. At the exit onto the main road are telephone booths and taxis. Damascus
and St. Stephen's Gates are within walking distance. A taxi to the city center should cost NIS15.)