Christians revere the historic Kidron Valley, which runs between the Old City and
the Mount of Olives, as the path of the last walk of Jesus. To get there, turn left
from Dung Gate and walk up the narrow Ha-Ophel Rd. A new paved sidewalk
leads to an observation point for the valley, the Mount of Olives in front of it, and
the four tombs directly below; a map on the floor explains the vista. Running
north-to-south are the Tomb of Jehosaphat and Absalom's Pillar, allegedly the tomb
of David's favored but feisty son (II Samuel 15-18). A dirt path on the left leads to
the impressive rock-hewn Tomb of B'nei Hezir and the Tomb of Zechariah. The tombs
are accessible from the base of the Mount of Olives or via a new staircase near the
observation point just past Ma'alot Ir David St. on Ha-Ophel Rd. Women travelers
should not visit the Mount of Olives alone.
The bone-dry slopes of the Mount of Olives (Har Ha-Zeitim in Hebrew, Jabal al-
Zeitoun in Arabic) to the east of the Old City are dotted with churches marking the
sites of Jesus' triumphant entry into Jerusalem, his teaching, his agony and
betrayal in Gethsemane, and his ascension to heaven. Jews believe that the Mes-
siah will arrive in Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. Tradition holds that the
thousands of people buried here will be the first to be resurrected upon his arrival.
For a monumental view of the Old City, check out the observation promenade
outside the Seven Arches Hotel. From here look to the north: the bell tower of the
Augusta Victoria Hospital on Mount Scopus marks the highest point in Jerusalem
(903m above sea level). Feel free to explore the luxurious interior of the hotel and
other magnificent vistas from behind its many windows.
CHAPEL OF CHRIST'S ASCENSION. Built in 392, this was the first church erected
to commemorate Christ's ascension. It is the geographical apex of noteworthy
sites in the area, if not the aesthetic peak. Toward the end of the 11th century, the
Crusaders adorned the tiny chapel with columns and arches, and in the late 12th
century Salah al-Din fortified it and added a domed roof. The interior contains a
candle-lighting stand and a sacred footprint, unidentifiable after generations of
non-sacred treadings of relic-happy pilgrims. The chapel is not particularly inter-
esting except on and near Ascension Day, when Christians from several denomi-
nations set up camp in the small courtyard during the celebration. (Open daily 8am-
5pm; ask a guard in the mosque courtyard if closed. NIS3.)
CHURCH OF THE PATER NOSTER. When St. Eleni founded this church in the 4th
century, she named it the Church of the Disciples; it is also referred to as the
Church of the Eleona (Greek for "olive grove"). This was the site of the grotto where
Jesus revealed the "inscrutable mysteries" to his disciples-foretelling the
destruction of Jerusalem and his Second Coming. The church commemorates the
first recitation of the Lord's Prayer (pater noster). Polyglots can read the prayer
in over 80 languages (including Quechua, Sotho, and Old Frisian) on the tiled
walls. In the midst of the translations is the tomb of the Princesse de la Tour
d'Auvergne, who worked here for 17 years (1857-74) and financed the excavations
and renovations. The Lord's Prayer was her favorite prayer, and she was deter-
mined to uncover the long-lost grotto where it was originally taught. The urn
above the tomb holds the heart of her father, the Italian politician and poet Baron
de Bossi. (Below the Chapel of Christ's Ascension, under an orange sign reading "Carmelite Con-
vent. " Open M-Sa 8:30-11:45am and 3-4:45pm.)