Recent years have seen tension in this much-disputed area. Claiming the legacy
of the ancient Jewish capital, Israeli nationalists have established a Jewish pres-
ence in the midst of the almost entirely Arab Silwan; Arab homes were quietly pur-
chased for very large sums and Jewish families brought in. The Jewish bastion is
perched precariously and conspicuously in the Arab neighborhood. Unaware tour-
ists may find themselves walking into a potentially dangerous situation. As always
in politically sensitive areas, make your tourist status pronounced, read newspa-
pers, and consult tourist offices before exploring.
The excavations in the northern part of the Ophel, Section G, were halted in 1981
when a group of Orthodox Jews protested that the area might be the Jewish cem-
etery mentioned in the diaries of several medieval pilgrims. After considerable and
sometimes violent political dispute, the Supreme Court of Israel ruled that the site
should be closed. As a compromise, the Israeli government promised that digging
would continue only under rabbinic supervision. No bones have been found, and
the excavations ceased in the late-90s due to a lack of funding.
Sloshing with a flashlight or candle through Hezekiah's Tunnel is one of Jerusa-
lem's most enjoyable adventures, but it's best not to do it alone. The water is never
deeper than thigh-high, and wading through it takes about 45 minutes. Start at the
Gihon Spring source on Shiloah Way and emerge at the Pool of Shiloah (Silwan in
Arabic, Silo'am in Hebrew). Check in at the Visitors Center for a map and detailed
instructions. (Open Su-Th 9am-5pm, F9am-2pm. NIS12, students NIS6.)
Beside the Visitors Center is an ancient, subterranean cistern, 15m in diameter
and about 5m high, suspected by some to be the biblical pit into which the prophet
Jeremiah was thrown (Jeremiah 38). The cistern can only be entered as part of the
guided tour offered through the Visitors Center. Past the Visitors Center, descend
the stairs to the hillside ruins known as Area G. The foundations of a house here
date from the First Temple period. Archaeologists found 51 clay seals in the house,
representing 46 different names, leading some to speculate that this was possibly
a post office or official archive building.
About 100m past the entrance to the City of David, away from Area G, is a small
museum with photos of the most recent excavations. A spiral staircase leads down
to Warren's Shaft. (Open Su-Th 9am4pm, F 9am-lpm. NIS8, students NIS6.) With a
flashlight, the entire length of the wall that Joab scaled is visible. Nearby is the
recently excavated Spring House (Beit Ha-Ma'ayan), which accessed the ancient
pool. There are plans to host a sound and light show inside the structure that cur-
rently covers the (now dry) pools.
Sights in the City of David are poorly marked and difficult to appreciate without
guidance. The City of David Visitors Center provides an excellent three-hour tour of
the excavations. Tours in English Su, Tu, and Th at 10:30am, with additional days
and times during the summer. NIS39, students NIS35, children NIS26; admission to
all sights included. Book by phone at least one day in advance. The tour involves
many stairs and wading through Hezekiah's Tunnel (wear shorts and shoes that can
get wet, and bring a flashlight if you can). To get to the Visitors Center from town,
take bus #1 to Dung Gate. Facing away from the gate, make a left downhill, then
the first right, downhill onto the unmarked Ma'alot Ir David St.; the center is imme-
diately on the left.
THE KIDRON VALLEY AND THE MOUNT OF OLIVES
The best way to visit the churches, tombs, gardens, and observation point is to start at the
top and walk down the winding road that passes through the hill's sights. In the morning,
this route yields sparkling views of the Old City. Most churches are closed on Sundays and
from about noon to 3pm. A taxi from Damascus Gate to the top should cost NIS15-20.