Within the grounds of the church is the Pool of Bethesda, straight ahead and
down the stairs. Crowds of the infirm used to wait beside the pool for an angel to
disturb the waters since the first person in after the angel would supposedly be
cured. Jesus also healed a sick man here (John 5:2-9). (NearSt. Stephen's Gate, through
the large wooden doors on the right. Church and grounds open M-Sa 8am-12:45pm and 2-6pm;
in winter M-Sa 8am-12:45pm and 2-5pm. NIS6, students NIS4.)
ST. ALEXANDER'S CHURCH. Built over the Judgment Gate, the church marks the
end of the Roman Cardo, through which Jesus exited the city on his way to Cal-
vary. First-century stones line the floor and two pillars from the original Cardo are
visible. Next to the gate is a small hole in the ancient wall-this is the famed Eye
of the Needle, through which latecomers would sneak into the city when the gates
were closed at night. The Russian Orthodox Palestine Society owns the church.
(Located on the right just after turning offal-Wad St. toward the Holy Sepulchre, n 62 7 49 52.
Open M-Sa 9am-lpm and 3-5pm. Ring bell. Prayers for Czar Alexander III Th 7am. NIS5.)
LUTHERAN CHURCH OF THE REDEEMER. The church is off al-Wad St. across
the street from St. Alexander's. Enter around the corner on Muristan St. and climb
a seemingly endless spiral staircase (actually 178 steps) to the bell tower for an
amazing view. (s627 61 11. Open M-Sa 9am-lpm and l:30-5pm. English service Sunday
9am; in German at the Crusader chapel next door. NIS3, students NIS2.)
MUSEUM OF THE GREEK ORTHODOX PATRIARCHATE. The museum is a more
recent addition to the Christian Quarter. Under the Patriarch Benedictos Papadopou-
los, the scattered liturgical riches, gifts of pilgrims, and early printings of the Patri-
archate's 19th-century press were arranged in a reconstructed Crusader building. (On
the street of the same name, я 62711 96. Open Tu-F9am-lpm and3-5pm, Sa 9am-lpm. NIS3.)
MUSLIM QUARTER (EXCLUDING VIA DOLOROSA)
The Muslim Quarter can be the most exciting of the four quarters; it is also the
most conservative. Women should dress modestly. During the day, the main streets
are crowded with tourists and merchants. At night, the quarter becomes dark, iso-
lated, and possibly dangerous. This is the largest and most heavily populated quar-
ter in the Old City. The architecture dates mostly from the Ayyubid and Mamluk
periods. Old City walking tours will pass through here; inquire with individual tour
groups for more detailed excursions (see 7). Self-appointed tour guides of
varying quality linger around Jaffa Gate; agree on a price before setting out. Don't
pay more than NISI5 for a trip around the Quarter.
Damascus Gate, the main entrance to the Quarter, is one of the finest examples
of Islamic architecture around. The main thoroughfare and western border of the
quarter is Khan al-Zeit Rd. leading from Damascus Gate to David St. with an infi-
nite array of booths selling spices, candy, clothing, sandals, and souvenirs. Al-Wad
Rd. connects the Western Wall area to Damascus Gate. A right off al-Wad Rd. onto
the Via Dolorosa leads to an array of small ceramics shops.
SOUQ. The bustling souq is crammed at all hours; watch out for heavily laden
wagons and tiny tractors, which charge gleefully at the crowds of shoppers. Pales-
tinian crafts such as Hebron-style wine glasses, mother-of-pearl inlaid boxes,
ceramic tiles, and spherical Jerusalem candles are beautiful; other items (cheap t-
shirts and plastic Domes of the Rock) aren't. For those who cannot throw out
enough t-shirts to fit an argeileh (waterpipe) into their packs, a short but power-
ful smoke (NIS1-2) at an ahwa (coffeeshop) provides adequate consolation. The
apple tobacco is especially delicious. Several local haunts inside Damascus Gate
rent argeilehs for NIS5 and they'll keep refilling the coals until your lungs say
stop. Women should make sure the ahwa is not exclusively male.