south, near the telephones. Underneath the Western Wall is an underground pas-
sage where Jewish radicals hid explosives in the early 1980s in a plot to destroy
the Dome of the Rock. For tours of the passage, contact the Archaeological Semi-
nars or the Jewish Student Information Center (see Tours, 7).
Friday evenings are the best time to visit the Wall, when Jews come from all
over the city (and world) to usher in Shabbat. The festivities start before sundown
and go until late. Many visitors on these evenings are invited to traditional Shabbat
meals following the prayers; if you would like to be guaranteed a place, contact
the Jewish Student Information Center in advance (see 7). Half a dozen bar
mitzvahs occur at the Wall on Monday and Thursday mornings. These ceremonies
mark the coming of age of Jewish boys. Photography is appropriate at these occa-
sions, but not on Shabbat or holidays. On other nights, the Wall is brightly lit, the
air cool, and the atmosphere reflective and quiet. (The Wall can be reached by foot from
Dung Gate, the Jewish Quarter, Bab al-Silsilah St. or al-Wad Rd.)
OPHEL ARCHAEOLOGICAL GARDEN. The excavations at the southern wall of the
Temple Mount are known as "Ophel," though the name technically refers to the
hill just outside the southern wall, where the City of David is located. Scholars
have uncovered 22 layers from 12 periods of the city's history. A tunnel leads out
to the steps of the Temple Mount. (From the Western Wall, head out past the security point
toward Dung Gate; the entrance to the ruins is on the left just before the gate.Open
daily 7am-5pm. NIS14, students NIS7. Combo tickets for Ophel, Burnt House, Herodian Quarter,
and Last Ditch Battle Museum NIS26, students NIS24.)
CARDO. Down Or Hayim St. between Habad St. and Ha-Yehudim St. the staircase
descends to the remains of Jerusalem's main thoroughfare during Roman and Byz-
antine times. The enormous remaining pillars suggest its original monumental pro-
portions. The uncovered section is built over a Byzantine extension of Emperor
Hadrian's Cardo Maximus, which ran from Damascus Gate to about as far south as
David St. Archaeologists suspect that Justinian constructed the addition so that
the Cardo would extend as far as the Nea Church (beneath Yeshivat Ha-Kotel).
Sheltered by the Cardo's vaulted roof are the best Judaica shops in Jerusalem;
most are fairly expensive, but the quality warrants the hefty price tags. Near the
entrance to the Cardo, there is a climb down to an excavated section of the Has-
monean city walls and remains of buildings from the First Temple period. Farther
along the Cardo is an enlarged mosaic reproduction of the Madaba map, the 6th-
century plan of Jerusalem discovered in Jordan. (Make a left at the bottom of the stairs
on Ha-Yehudim St. Cardo open and illuminated Su-Th until 11pm.)
HERODIAN QUARTER AND WOHL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. This museum
consists of the huge excavation of three mansions, thought to belong to the family
of a High Priest during the Second Temple period. Nine colorful mosaic floors
were discovered in the ruins, five of which were probably in ancient bathrooms.
After the Western Wall tunnels, this is perhaps the most interesting Old City exca-
vation. (Entrance is on Ha-Kara'im St. off Hurva Square, near Tony's Market. Open
Su-Th 9am-4:30pm, F 9am-12:30pm. NIS15, students NIS13. Combined ticket to Burnt House
and Herodian Quarter NIS19, students NIS16.)
BURNT HOUSE. The Burnt House is the remains of a priest's dwelling from the
Second Temple era. In 70 CE, the fourth year of the Jewish Revolt, the Romans
destroyed the Second Temple and broke into Jerusalem's Upper City, burning its
buildings and killing its inhabitants. The excavation of the Burnt House provided
direct evidence of the destruction of the Upper City. Near a stairwell, the bones of
a severed arm were found, but a few years ago the remains were taken and buried
according to Jewish law. Sound and Ught shows are set inside the Burnt House, re-
creating the events of its destruction-with virtual fire, of course. (On Tiferet Yisrael