Al-Quds Restaurant, 23 Suleiman St. Facing away from Damascus Gate,
cross the street and turn right; keep walking to reach the unmistakable and popular eat-
ery. Dozens of whole chickens roast on the storefront rotisserie. Take-away half a
chicken for NIS25. Open daily 7am-midnight.
И cafes_
Што1 Shilshom, 5 Yoel Salomon St. Enter from
Nahalat Shiva St. This bookstore-cafe, named after a Shai Agnon book, is frequented by
writers and poets such as Yehuda Amihai; he and other local greats give occasional
readings here (sometimes in English; call in advance or check the web page for dates),
while aspiring writers scrawl over coffee and tea (NIS8-14). Renowned all-you-can-eat
breakfast buffet every Friday morning (NIS39.50). Internet NIS7 for 15min. Gay-friendly.
Open Su-Th 8am-2am, F 8am-before sunset, Sa after sundown-2am.
Noctorno, 7 Bezalel St. , off King George St. away from the midrahov, at
the corner of Ha-Gidem St. Small and cozy; a quiet but funky alternative to the crowded
cafes just two blocks away. Espresso NIS5; salads NIS25; sandwiches NIS20. Open Su-
Th 7am-midnight. F 7am-4pm, Sa after sundown-12:30am.
Second Cup, 4 Shammai St. , on the midrahov, at the corner of Ben Hillel
St. Hugely popular with non-Israelis and others who appreciate professionally roasted
coffee (they've begun to sell it by the kg). Large cafe is great for quick morning croissant
and coffee (NIS10) or a cup of hot apple cider (NIS8). Students often curl up in the
comfy armchairs and library-like alcoves before exams. Open Su-Th 6am-lam, F 6am-
sunset, Sa after sundown-lam.
Cafe Ta'amon, 27 King George St. , across the street from the old Knes-
set. A legendary hole-in-the-wall where older Israeli writers and intellectuals mingle with
vodka lovers. Owner Mordekhai Kop's IOU book is a veritable Who's Who in Israel. Cof-
fee, tea, soups (NIS15), and pastries (NIS7). Friday is cholent day, when regulars come
for the traditional Jewish meat and potato stew (NIS20). Open Su-Th 6am-llpm, F
6am-4pm, Sa (in winter only) after sundown-lam.
Riff-Raff, 19 Ben Hillel St. , on the corner next to McDonald's. Sandwich
and espresso bar draws a young, buzzing crowd at any hour; it's a good place to go if
you're still awake when the clubs shut down. Gay-friendly. Espresso NIS6; huge selec-
tion of sandwiches NIS20-30; generous breakfast NIS28. Open 24hr.
Cafe Atara, 15 Ben-Yehuda St. Atara was the first eatery on the street
when it opened in 1938 (not in its current location). Its rich history has earned it a
steady following. Selection of toasted sandwiches NIS28; salads NIS31-41; dessert
pies NIS21. Open Su-Th 7:30am-midnight, F 7am-3pm, Sa after sundown-midnight.
53 sights
OLD CITY
There's something about this tiny plot of land that made it holy, not only for
Jews, Christians, and Muslims, but to dozens of ancient religious groups as well.
Excavations under the Old City have uncovered over 20 distinct layers of civiliza-
tion. Before beginning a tour, it's helpful to get an idea of what the city looked
like in ages past. The Holyland Hotel in Bayit va-Gan in West Jerusa-
lem has an excellent, knee-high model of Jerusalem circa 66 CE, toward the end
of the Second Temple Period. (Bus #21 from downtown. Open daily 8am-10pm.
NIS44, students with ISIC NIS25.) For a cheaper and more local introduction,
start with the informative films at the Tower of David and at the Center for Jerus-
alem in the First Temple Period.