risking tickets for this outstanding, non-greasy falafel. Falafel NIS8; esh tanoor (falafel
in lafa bread) NIS9. Open Su-Th 9am-9pm. О
Gagou de Paris Bakery, 14 King George St. , the best place in the city
center for steaming morning goodies or lunchtime snacks, including a dozen kinds of
bread. Small tuna sandwich NIS10. Open Su-Th 7am-8:30pm, F 7am-3pm. О
SWEET QUICKIES
Ш Babbette's Party, 16 Shammai St. , near the corner of Yoel Salomon. A
happy addition to the sweet-tooth scene. Israelis flock just to get a whiff of Babbette's
14 amazing Belgian waffle varieties (butter and cream NIS14; Grand Marnier NIS17).
Also hands-down the best hot chocolate in Israel, some would say in the world (NIS8).
Open Su-Th 4pm-2:30am, F Ham-sunset, Sa after sundown-2:30am.
Ш Magic Fruit Juice, at the corner of Ben-Yehuda and King George St. Fresh-squeezed juice
stands are scattered on and near the midrahov, but this one is generally regarded as
the best of the lot. Choose among mango, fig, carrot, peach, watermelon, and the rest
of the juice rainbow, or take a chance on the daily cocktail (small NIS4; large NIS10).
Open Su-Th 8am-10pm, F 8am-sunset. О
Ш Marzipan Bakery, 44 Agrippas St. , at one end of the Mahaneh Yehuda
market, sells ruggelah to die for-eat a kilogram (NIS20) and you just might. Open Su-
Th 7am-7pm, F 7am-mid-afternoon.
Mr. Juice, 37 Jaffa Rd. , next to Taco Taco. Another strong contender in
the blender wars, specializing in exotic and refreshing four-fruit combos whipped up on
the spot (large NIS10; 1L NIS20). Open Su-Th 8am-midnight, F 8am-4pm.
Katzefet , on the midrahov at the corner of Ben-Yehuda and Luntz St.
under the large sign proclaiming "Special Ice Cream." Excellent ice cream (1 scoop
NIS6), although the specialty is frozen yogurt, blended on the spot with your choice of
fresh fruits, nuts, or chocolates (small with 3 flavors NIS8). Open Su-Th 9am-2am, F
9am-sunset, Sa after sunset-2am. О
EAST JERUSALEM
East Jerusalem is crawling with vendors selling falafel, spicy kebab, ка'ак, and
ears of corn, all for less than NIS5. Follow the smoke, smells, and solicitations to
the corner of Suleiman and Nablus. Boxes along Suleiman St. and in the souq by
Damascus Gate overflow with some of the cheapest produce in the city.
В Kan Zaman, on the patio of the Jerusalem Hotel, just
behind the bus station on Nablus Rd. Glass-enclosed garden restaurant with delicate
tables shaded by vines. Sandwiches NIS30-35; meat and fish meals NIS40-60. Go Sa
after 8pm for their highly regarded Lebanese buffet (NIS70) with live classical Arabic
music. Open daily llam-llpm.
Omayyah Restaurant, 21 Suleiman St. , across the street and to the right
from Damascus Gate. Authentic Palestinian kitchen dishes up standard shawarma and
shish kebab, but also some less commercial specialties like the "upside down" rice
patty (a.k.a. maqlubeh; NIS22). Soft drinks NIS3. Open daily 9am-midnight.
American Colony Hotel Restaurant, in
the courtyard of the American Colony Hotel, a few blocks past the US Consulate on Nab-
lus Rd. At night, a cab from the city center (NISI 1) is a must; the hotel is several long
blocks into East Jerusalem. The fountained courtyard of this historic and picturesque
luxury hotel is the city's most romantic and idyllic refuge. Spectacular food, priced for
special nights only, but worth it. Starter buffet US$12; entrees US$13-30. Open 6:30-
10:30am, noon-3pm, and 7-9:45pm. Reservations recommended.