JERUSALEM 20

natural pareve (non-dairy) meals made using whole grains milled on location, home-
made tempeh, purified water, rice milk, and olive oil. No margarine, sugar, yeast, alumi-
num, or microwaves used. Meals are served with rice, chunky veggies, and two slices of
crusty, thick sourdough bread. Open Su-Th 7am-7pm, F 7am-2pm.
Nevatim, 10 Ben-Yehuda St. , under a large but subtle wooden sign.
Unquestionably the crunchiest place on the midrahov; also one of the most affordable.
Impressive assortment of soups (from miso to borscht; small bowl NIS15), plus veggie
burgers (NIS17), grilled tofu (NIS17), and delicious, unlimited homemade bread. Open
Su-Th lOam-lOpm, F lOam-before sundown.
Village Green, 33 Jaffa St. , between Rivlin St. and Nahalat Shiva. Even
carnivores will marvel over the salad bar here, which is priced according to weight (min.
NIS13), while others satisfy their appetites with blintzes (NIS18), vegan burgers
(NIS18), and other healthy a la carte options. Open Su-Th 9am-10pm, F 9am-3pm.
More romantic location on 1 Bezalel St. , off King George in the city cen-
ter, with similar menu and hours, в
Cafe Chagall, 5 Ben-Yehuda St. , on the corner of Luntz St. A veritable
fixture of the midrahov. High quality, reasonably priced dairy restaurant, with decor
inspired by the famed Jewish artist. The 12 types of fresh salad (NIS34-41), each more
than a full meal, are the best deal here, but be sure to save some room-just reading
the selection of desserts (NIS20 each) is enough to provoke drooling. Open Su-Th 7am-
midnight, F 7am-sundown, Sa after sundown-2am.
The Pie Shop, 9 Yoel Salomon St. Turn left into the alleyway when
coming from Zion Sq. Specializes in all manner of crusty comestibles. Six kinds of "veg-
etable pie" (a.k.a quiche; with salad and a drink NIS30) and 9 kinds of deliciously
sweet fruit pies (NIS18; a la mode NIS23). Strawberry, the hands-down favorite, is
rarely available; ask about the seasonal fruit special. Open Su-Th 2pm-2am, F 10am-
3pm, Sa sundown-2am; in winter Su-Th 10am-2am, F 10am-2pm, Sa sundown-2am.
CHEAP QUICKIES
There is nothing like the quest for cheap falafel to unite tourists and natives. Cre-
ating the ultimate falafel or shawarma is an art all its own, and dozens of dens
throughout Jerusalem are busily engaged in the pursuit of greatness. Me'orav, a
mix of inner parts grilled with onions and packed in pita pockets, is a specialty of
the stands on Agrippas St. behind Mahaneh Yehuda. International franchises like
McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken, found mostly in the Zion Sq. area, are
often more expensive than the traditional Middle Eastern fast food
ii Melekh Ha-Falafel V'ha-Shawarma (King of Falafel and Shawarma, «636 53 72), on
the corner of King George and Agrippas St. Acclaimed parlor dominates the midtown
scene; the tiny store is always packed, no matter what hour. Savory falafel NIS8; sha-
warma NIS12. Open Su-Th 8:30am-llpm, F 8:30am-3pm. О
Pinati, 13 King George St. , on the corner of Ha-Histadrut St. Specializes
in old-school Middle Eastern food. Has an excellent reputation and strong following with
the locals. During lunch it's full of middle-aged workers on their break; rarely a tourist in
sight. Hummus and fuul platter (NIS14) is a long-time favorite, as are the rice and fasu-
lyeh beans (NIS10). Open Su-Th 8am-8pm, F 8am-3pm. в
Pampa Grill, 3 Rivlin St. High quality South American grill that will
delight any carnivore. The small take-out section offers the best deals; huge chicken or
beef baguette and unlimited fried onions NIS17. Indoor and outdoor seating next door
features a more extensive menu; lunch special daily noon-5pm, NIS30. Open Su-Th
noon-midnight, F noon-sunset, Sa after sunset-midnight,
Shalom Falafel, 36 Bezalel St. , on the right a few blocks from the city
center; look for the crowd huddled outside. Passing motorists often park on the street,