Papa Andrea's, 64 Aftemeos St. , near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
From Jaffa Gate, walk straight ahead into the market and take the 2nd left onto Afte-
meos St. Third floor rooftop location is a good place to get away from the hubbub of the
market. Pleasant, clean, and sunny. Delicious Jerusalem plate appetizer makes a filling
vegetarian meal (NIS35); carnivores should try the lamb shishlik (NIS50). 10% Let's Go
discount. Open daily 8am-midnight.
Nafoura, 18 Latin Patriarchate St. first left inside Jaffa
Gate, 2 blocks in. Classical music, brand-new gleaming crystal chandeliers, and bur-
bling tiled fountains in the back terrace make this the most elegant and simply beautiful
restaurant in the Old City. One of the few places in Jerusalem to get a pork cutlet
(NIS40). 10% Let's Go discount. Open daily 12:30-1 lpm.
WEST JERUSALEM
West Jerusalem's restaurant scene reflects the international makeup of its grow-
ing population. Dining here spans a full spectrum of price ranges, from fried falafel
to fancy French. Restaurants with outdoor tables line the Salomon, Rivlin, and
Ben-Yehuda St. midrabovot, all within a couple square blocks in the city-center.
Look for inexpensive "business lunch" specials at many city-center restaurants.
Many establishments straddle the boundaries between restaurant, bar, and cafe,
so check all listings to find the right place, or go to the Jerusalem specific website,
which is jam-packed with most listings in town.
For the cheapest of the fresh and the freshest of the cheap, head for the raucous
open-air Mahaneh Yehuda market between Jaffa Rd. and Agrippas St. west of the
city center. Elbow past bag-laden fellow shoppers to the fruit and vegetable
stands, pita bakeries, and sumptuous displays of pastries that line the alleys.
There's a small grocery store (makolet) with rock-bottom prices at almost every
corner. Ten pitas go for NIS3 or less; 1kg grapefruit, tomatoes, or zucchini goes for
the same price. The stands along Etz Ha-Hayim St. sell the best halva (a dessert
like sesame marzipan) at NIS14-16 per kg. The best hours to visit the shuk are at
closing time (Su-Th 7-8pm, F l-2hr. before sundown), when merchants lower their
prices shekel by shekel to sell off the day's goods. Friday morning prices are the
highest, but they plummet in the afternoon, when thousands scramble through the
alleys in a frantic effort to stock up for Shabbat. The worst market day is Sunday,
when things are still slow after the weekend.
Supermarkets include Supersol, on the corner of Agron and King George St.
(F until 3pm, Sa sundown-mid-
night), and Co-Op supermarket, in the basement of the Ha-Mashbir department
store at the intersection of King George and Ben-Yehuda St. (Open Su-
Th 8am-7:30pm and F 8am-2:30pm.) The small Drugstore 2000, 21 Shammai St.
, at the corner of Luntz St. and the midrahov, is not a drugstore, but
Jerusalem's only 24hr. supermarket.
H Spaghettim, 8 Rabbi Akiva St. off Hillel St. Bear left at
the sign, through the gates of an Italian-style villa. Snappy and elegant restaurant
serves spaghetti prepared in over 75 different methods, from "gorgonzola spinachi"
(NIS38) to "vanilla and brandy" (NIS25). Beautifully lit interior and refreshing outdoor
seating. Open daily noon-midnight.
The Yemenite Step, 10 Yoel Salomon St. Grand stone building with high
ceilings and outdoor seating. Try the heavenly malaweh, their specialty, which resem-
bles a large, flat, flaky croissant (with honey NIS18; with meat or veggie fillings NIS38
and up). Open Su-Th noon-12:30am, F noon-4pm, Sa after sundown-lam.
Misadonet, 12 Yoel Salomon St. , when coming from Zion Sq. turn right
into the marked alleyway and right again past Orcha Camping. Authentic Kurdish