ARMENIAN QUARTER
S Michael's Bar, 3 St. Mark's St. , off David St. uphill from the Lutheran
Hostel. Possibly the best falafel in Jerusalem, but the real reason to come is for
Michael, one of the Old City's most charming residents. This is not an eat-on-the-run
type of place; prepare to kick back over a beer or glass of wine for an hour or more.
Michael is also an excellent source for shopping and travel advice; consult with him to
find out what a reasonable price is before you start haggling with shop owners. Falafel
NIS8; shish kebab or shawarma NIS12. Open daily lOam-lOpm. О
The Loaves and Fishes Coffee Shop , inside Jaffa Gate, across from the
Tower of David, hidden among more gaudy places. The awning simply says "The Coffee
Shop." Ivy stenciling, Jerusalem-tiled tables, A/C, and a no-smoking rule make this one
of the most pristine restaurants in the Old City. They modestly refer to their meat-and-
cheese lasagna (NIS38) as the best in Israel. Sandwiches NIS15-16; unlimited salad
bar NIS30. Many vegetarian options. Open Tu-Su 1 lam-6:30pm.
The Armenian Tavern, 79 Armenian Orthodox Patriarchate Rd. Take a
right inside Jaffa Gate and follow traffic on the too-narrow street. Tavern is on the left
and down the steps. Blissfully cool and warmly appointed, with tile-studded walls and
indoor fountain. Specialties include khaghoghi derev (minced meat in grape leaves;
NIS35) and pepper salads (NIS7). Open Tu-Su 1 lam-11pm. Credit cards accepted.
JEWISH QUARTER
Keshet, 2 Tiferet Yisrael St. , in Hurva Sq. Delicious dairy food includes
Jewish specialties like potato latkes with sour cream and applesauce, served with a
fresh salad and house dressing (NIS40). When it's not oppressively hot, eat outside
and watch tour groups. Open Su-Th 9am-7pm, in winter until 6pm; F 9am-sundown.
Quarter Cafe , in the Jewish Quarter above the Burnt House; look for the
sign on the way to the Western Wall. The hidden steps behind the cashier's desk lead to
roof tables with an epic view of the Temple Mount. Meals made fresh daily on the pre-
mises. Dairy main dish with 2 side dishes NIS38-50, full breakfast NIS42. 10% Let's Go
discount. Offers internet access and international phone calls for NISI.5 per min. Open
Su-Th 9am-7pm, F 9am-3:30pm; in winter Su-Th 9am-6pm, F 9am to sundown.
The Culinarium, in the Jewish Quarter Cardo. In a delight-
fully cartoonish (and cheesy) Roman manner, waiters in armor wrap patrons in togas,
adorn them with plastic laurel wreaths, and bring out plate after plate of chicken, fish,
salad, pita, and olive oil. Lunch US$17. Dinner US$29 (includes live music and juggling
show). Lunch Su-F noon-4pm; dinner 6:30pm-midnight. By reservation only. Credit
cards accepted.
Tony's . Facing away from the Western Wall plaza, take the archway to the
right below the tall staircase; the stylish dairy restaurant is on your left. This one-time
cave has been artfully transformed into an attractive and elegant cove. Sit downstairs to
get the most of the coziness. Scrumptious Galilee Salad NIS44; soup du jour NIS20.
Open Su-Th 8:30am-10pm, F 8:30am-lpm.
Tzaddik's Deli , on Tiferet Yisrael St. across from the Burnt House. One of
the only real New York style delis in Israel, although portions are usually much more
generous in the Bronx. Hot corned beef sandwich NIS29; daily specials NIS20-30. Open
Su-Th 9:30am-9:30pm, F until lhr. before Shabbat, Sa from lhr. after Shabbat.
CHRISTIAN QUARTER
IS Abu Shanab Pizza and Bar, 35 Latin Patriarchate Rd. , the first left from
Jaffa Gate. An old favorite of natives and tourists alike. Candlelight gleams off the stone
walls and intimate tables. Mini individual pizzas NIS13-18; Oriental salads NIS7-10;
assortment of cocktails NIS20. Happy hour every night 6-7pm, all drinks 2-for-l. Live
jazz occasionally. Open M-Sa lOam-llpm.