St. George's Cathedral Pilgrim Guest House, 20 Nablus Rd. on the grounds of St. George's Cathedral on Nab-
lus Rd. about lOmin. past the Garden Tomb. Wonderful but expensive place to stay.
Rooms have TV, bathroom, phone, fan, and sumptuous bedding. Guard 24hr. Cafe and
sitting area in an airy and green courtyard. Breakfast included. Reception 8am-10pm.
Check-out 10am. Reservations required. Singles US$62; doubles US$95; triples
US$115. 10% service not included; discounts available in off-season.
YMCA Capitolina Hotel, 29 Nablus Rd. next door to the
American consulate, in the magnificent YMCA building. Very comfortable rooms with full
bath, many with balcony. Beautiful sitting rooms and restaurant on the top floor with
epic views of the city. Breakfast included. Lunch and dinner US$10. Sports facilities
downstairs, including an Olympic-sized pool, at a nominal charge. Reception 24hr. Res-
ervations highly recommended. Singles US$60; doubles US$92, add a bed to make a
triple at a small additional charg5% service not included.
St. Thomas's Home, 6 Chaldeen St. at the site of the
Syrian Catholic Patriarchate. From Damascus Gate, walk up Nablus Rd. and take the
alleyway to the left just before the Cairo Hostel. Clean but old rooms provide quiet com-
fort for globe-trotting pilgrims. All rooms with private bath. Heated in winter. Breakfast
included. Reception 9am-9:30pm. Check-out 11am. Curfew 9:30pm. Reservations
required. Singles US$31; doubles US$51; triples US$76.50.
H food
OLD CITY
While several tourist-priced places entice the mobs around Jaffa Gate, the cheaper
Middle Eastern restaurants crowd in the narrow alleyways of the Old City. In the
Muslim Quarter, the chicken restaurants on Suq Khan ai-Zelt, inside Damascus
Gate, are popular with locals (look for the huge rotisseries and follow the smell).
Interchangeable sit-down restaurants line al-Wad Rd. and Bab al-Silsilah St. At
Damascus Gate falafel is NIS5; at Jaffa Gate the same meal goes for NIS10. Crates
of fresh fruit, veggies, and herbs abound both inside and outside Damascus Gate.
Street vendors sell fresh, soft sesame ka'ak throughout the souq; ask for za'tar to
go with it and dip away (NIS2-3). The market also drips with honey-drenched Arab
pastries for NIS12-24 per kilo. Ja'far Sweets, 42 Suq Khan al-Zeit St. ,
offers the hottest, gookiest, most authentic pastries in the market, bar none. Take
out or eat in with the locals. Open daily 8am-8pm. Small supermarkets can be found
throughout the Old City, particularly in and near the Jewish Quarter.
MUSLIM QUARTER
The Green Door Pizza Bakery , off al-Wad St. Coming in Damascus Gate,
make a sharp left when the road forks. Abu Ali has been serving his renowned Arabic-style
pizza for over two decades. Filling, one-person pizzas (NIS6) are topped with cheese, egg,
meat, and as many vegetables as he has. He'll also do individual orders, including vege-
tarian. Eat in and you get free tea and coffee. Open daily 6am-llpm. О
Damascus Gate Cafe , on the immediate left, right inside Damascus
Gate; look for the "The Gate Cafe" sign. The large shaded terrace grants welcome
respite from the daily racket of the gate. Sit and "gate-watch" while eating shawarma
(NIS15) or a full breakfast (NIS28). Open daily 7:30am-8pm or later.
Jerusalem Star Restaurant, 32 al-Wad Rd. Cool interior with wood-
painted walls and deep carpeting. One of the best deals in town. Traditional musakhan
NIS30; hummus plate NIS5. Open daily 8am-10pm.