The sweltering weather hardly abates at night, so air-conditioning is a must.
Beit Sara Youth Hostel (HI) , uphill at the turnoff for
Nahal David. Clean and uncrowded rooms with A/C and private baths. Ask about dis-
count tickets (15%) for the nature reserve, Ein Gedi Spa, and Atraktzia water park.
Office open 7am-9pm; 24hr. phone reception. Check-in 3-7pm. Check-out 9am, Sa
10am. Dorms NIS72/US$17.50; doubles US$56. HI US$1.50 discount on dorms.
Breakfast included; dinner US$8.50, child US$7.50, packed lunch available on request
(NIS22). Credit cards accepted.
Ein Gedi Field School . A steep lOmin. climb up the road
behind the more accessible youth hostel yields a less touristed, more scenic spot. Run
by the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI), which offers free sound and
light shows on the Judean Desert every night. Common kitchen and TV room. This peak
is the only place on Earth to get a glimpse of a rare species of bird called Leilit Hamid-
bar (Hume's Tawny Owl). Special bird-shrine and lookout point a few feet from the TV
room. Each spartan room equipped with a coffee station and towels for the shared
showers. Small grocery store open daily 6-7pm. Breakfast included; lunch and dinner
29 2 B CENTRAL DEAD SEA
their leader Elazar Ben-Yair said, "unenslaved by enemies, and leave this world as
free men in company with wives and children" rather than be captured by the
Romans. Because Jewish law forbids suicide, ten men were chosen to slay the oth-
ers, and one chosen to kill the other nine before falling on his own sword. Before
burning the fortress and all their possessions, the Jews placed stores of wheat and
water in the citadel's courtyard to prove to the Romans that they did not perish
from hunger. The following morning, when the triumphant Romans burst in, they
encountered only smoking ruins and deathly silence. The only survivors, two
women and five children, told the story of the Zealots' last days to Josephus Fla-
vius, a Jewish-Roman general and chronicler. Flavius, always eager to embellish a
good tale, never actually visited Masada. He based his dramatic history on the sur-
vivors' accounts, later describing the two to be "of exceptional intelligence for
women." Although strong corroborating evidence for the story has been found at
the site, such as the murder-lottery slips Josephus describes, archaeologists have
yet to unearth the Zealots' actual remains. Where the bones of almost 1000 people
have gone is still a mystery.
Masada lies 20km south of Ein Gedi, a few kilometers inland from the Jerusalem-
Eilat road (Rt0). Buses leaving Masada generally start around 8:30am; only a
few leave after 4pm. Check at the Taylor Youth hostel for a current schedule, and
make sure you are heading in the right direction. Buses go to: Be'er Sheva (#384
and 385; Su-Th 4 per day 8:15am-6:15pm, F no 6:15pm bus, Sa 3:45pm; NIS35.50,
students NIS31) via Ein Bokek (NISI 1.50); Eilat (#444; Su-Th 4 per day 8am-6pm, F
3 per day 8am-3pm; NIS50, students NIS45); Jerusalem (#444 and 486; Su-Th 8 per
day 8:35am-7:20pm, F 5 per day 8:35am-3:20pm, Sa 6:50 and 9:20pm; NIS37.50, stu-
dents NIS34) via Ein Gedi (NIS14); Bus #384 and 385 also go to Ein Gedi; Tel Aviv
(#421; Su-F 2:25pm; NIS47, students NIS42).
By car, Rt199 runs from Arad to the base of the Roman Ramp, and Rt0
leads to the Snake Path, the eastern cable car entrance, the bus stop, and the youth
hostel. The walk around the base from one path to the other is extremely arduous
and time-consuming. Those who decide to do it should follow the SPNI trail, not
the incline with the water pipe.